Saphan Kwai
This is a small strip of less than a dozen grass roots level go-go bars that specifically target the local market. That doesn’t mean that foreigners are not welcome but it does mean that the bar protocol is slightly different. It also means that some of the more boisterous indiscretions that are acceptable in the major bar districts would be severely frowned upon here. When in Rome do as the Romans do.
There is none of the glitz found in Soi Cowboy or Nana, even the most neon-clad exterior gives way to a rather rudimentary interior. The first thing to remember is that, although there are dancing girls, bellying up to the stage and trying to get a worms eye view of their gusset is considered uncouth. In Thai society staring at someone is regarded as being aggressive and, when dancing, the girls wont even make eye contact with you. The seating arrangement is at tables around or in front of a low stage. Lighting is bland and the music loud.
When you arrive the papasan will ask if you want a girl to talk to. English is not widely spoken in these parts but all the bars that I’ve been into were able to produce at least one girl who was able. Further more they all turned out to be pleasant company whose conversation skills went a bit further than the routine “What you name, where you come from, first time you come Thailand?”
It is acceptable to tell papasan “No thanks, I’d like to just drink my beer for a while.” If you change your mind just let him know and he’ll send your choice of girl over. If you go with a mate or two they probably will leave you in peace.
If you go alone expect a lot more attention. The idea that you can be having any fun whilst sitting on your own is alien to the average Thai. The Thai word for fun is sanuk and nothing you do alone is ever sanuk. But its not the kind of place you go to for the show. The dancers seem like they are only relieving the boredom between customers so you might as well try and get to know one.
A lot of the girls seem to be from Nong Khai and the Lanna region of the far north. They boast the fairer skin tones than their Issan sisters. According to many Thai males the girls of the north are the most beautiful in the country.
Once you’ve chosen your girl she will come and sit with you. From here the system seems to be in a state of flux. Sometimes the girl will ask for a coke but I believe this has more to do with what the papasan thinks you expect. More often you simply pay for the time she spends with you, which averages at around 100 baht for 30 minutes, and she helps to drink your beer.
Beer comes in large bottles and cost about 110 baht. Less than a small bottle in the major bar areas. The downside is also you get to pay for an ice bucket which adds about 30 baht and you also get a cold towel for a further 10 baht.
That ice is for the beer. Thais can’t fathom how anyone can drink beer without ice. I suppose you could refuse it but you’d be refusing your girl an essential component of her drink and that seems a bit cheap. Best to just train her not to pollute yours.
Quotes for a short-time varied but seemed to be in the region of 1000-1500 baht paid directly to the bar. “How long is a short time,” I asked, “two, three, four hours?” “Yes.” She said. They all seemed to be promoting a nearby hotel which would add another 250 baht of which they presumably they get a commission. You’ll probably need to give the girl a tip afterwards.
Disclaimer: The global economy is a mess and prices change so treat these figures as a rough guide only.
To get there take the skytrain to Saphan Khwai station. Exit the station and double back under the tracks that you just arrived on. Turn left at the intersection after the Big C mall. a couple of hundred yards down the road does a dog leg bend. Find that and you are there.
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